The Rich Textile traditions of Karnataka
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The Living Threads of Karnataka: A Look into Its Rich Textile Crafts
Karnataka’s textile heritage isn’t just a cultural artifact — it’s a living, breathing legacy. From temple rituals to modern fashion ramps, the handwoven and handcrafted traditions of the state continue to evolve, powered by generations of artisans. Each region brings its own history, technique, and design language. Here's a detailed look at some of the most iconic and distinctive textile crafts from Karnataka.
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1. Ilkal Saree – Tradition with a Korvai Twist
Region: Bagalkot
Fabric: Cotton + art-silk
Highlights: Known for its signature korvai (contrast-woven) borders and tope teni pallus, Ilkal sarees often feature red and maroon shades and are sometimes finished with Kasuti embroidery. They're a staple for women in North Karnataka and are often worn during rituals and festivals.
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2. Molakalmuru Saree – The Temple Weave
Region: Chitradurga
Fabric: Silk
Highlights: Recognized with a GI tag, Molakalmuru sarees stand out with bright, intricate motifs—peacocks, elephants, and chariots—woven into fine silk. The weave reflects a confluence of temple traditions and vibrant ceremonial use.
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3. Mysore Silk – Regal by Design
Region: Mysuru
Fabric: 100% Mulberry silk
Highlights: Produced by the Karnataka Silk Industries Corporation (KSIC), Mysore silk sarees are prized for their rich sheen and pure gold zari borders. These sarees are minimalist in design but exude unmatched luxury.
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4. Kasuti Embroidery – Folk Art in Stitches
Region: Dharwad / Gadag
Fabric: Cotton or silk base
Highlights: A traditional folk embroidery, Kasuti involves laborious, knot-free stitching using patterns like chariots, lamps, conch shells, and temples. Historically practiced by women on bridal sarees, this craft is deeply symbolic.
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5. Kawandi Quilts – Story Quilts of the Siddis
Region: Bagalkot / Bijapur
Fabric: Recycled fabric patchwork
Highlights: Created by Siddi women of African descent, these quilts are assembled from old clothing scraps, with stitches that spiral from the edges inward. Their vibrant, asymmetrical patterns reflect both African influences and local Indian traditions.
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6. Lambani (Banjara) Embroidery – Nomadic Vibrance
Region: Sandur / Bijapur / Vijayapura
Fabric: Cotton with mirror and bead embellishments
Highlights: This GI-tagged craft by the Lambani tribal community uses bright threads, intricate mirrors, shells, and patchwork. The designs are exuberant and carry spiritual and cultural meaning, often stitched into shawls, bags, and blouses.
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7. Kaudi Quilts – Sustainable Comfort
Region: Rural Karnataka
Fabric: Layered fabric scraps
Highlights: A tradition born out of necessity, Kaudi quilts are made from used fabrics stitched together in concentric layers. Each region adds its own variation to this deeply sustainable and utilitarian craft.
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8. Kodiyala Cotton – Threads of Royal Patronage
Region: Srirangapatna (Mandya)
Fabric: Cotton
Highlights: Woven by the Padmashali community, Kodiyala cotton once enjoyed the patronage of Mysore royalty. The weave is lightweight, breathable, and known for subtle stripes and check patterns.
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9. Udupi Cotton – Ethically Elegant
Region: Udupi & Dakshina Kannada
Fabric: Cotton
Highlights: Made on frame-looms using eco-friendly dyeing and sizing, Udupi cotton sarees are crisp yet soft, often in elegant temple-border patterns. The GI tag recognizes the craft’s sustainable revival.
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10. Navalgund Dhurries – Rug Weaving with a Legacy
Region: Navalgund (Dharwad)
Fabric: Cotton
Highlights: Flat-woven rugs with intricate geometric and peacock motifs, these dhurries are made exclusively by women. A unique pit-loom setup is used, with a weaving technique passed down through matrilineal traditions.
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11. Chintamani Silk – Heart of Sericulture
Region: Chikkaballapur
Fabric: Mulberry silk
Highlights: Known for its smooth texture and high sheen, Chintamani silk is handwoven and tightly linked to Karnataka’s robust sericulture industry.
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12. Guledgudda Khana – The Blouse Fabric Icon
Region: Guledgudda (Bagalkot)
Fabric: Handloom cotton
Highlights: Originally designed for blouses, Khana fabric is known for bold colors, dobby or block-printed motifs, and a distinctive square-check pattern. Its GI tag underlines its regional and cultural importance.
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13. Cutwork Embroidery – Eyelets of Elegance
Region: Mangalore
Fabric: Cotton/Silk base
Highlights: Often seen on bridal blouses and saree borders, this embroidery technique features delicate eyelet holes and floral patterns made by cutting away parts of the fabric and hemming them decoratively.
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14. Batik Painting – Wax and Dye Magic
Region: Mangalore
Fabric: Cotton or silk
Highlights: In this wax-resist technique, molten wax is applied to fabric, which is then dyed. The cracks in the wax create unique patterns, used for both sarees and wall hangings.
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15. Anekal Cotton Sarees – Natural and New-Age
Region: Anekal (Bengaluru Rural)
Fabric: Cotton
Highlights: Recently revived under the “Aane Hejje” initiative, these sarees use natural dyes and feature fine checks and subtle color play. They’re a quiet nod to Karnataka’s rural textile strength.
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16. Khadi Weaving – The Freedom Fabric
Region: Hubli, Belagavi, Badanavalu, Melkote
Fabric: Hand-spun, handwoven cotton
Highlights: Deeply tied to Gandhi’s swadeshi movement, Karnataka’s Khadi cooperatives continue to produce naturally dyed fabric, including the official Indian flag material.
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17. Melukote Panche (Dhoti) – Sacred Weave
Region: Melukote (Mandya)
Fabric: Cotton and silk
Highlights: Worn in religious rituals, this dhoti is woven with fine threads and elegant dobby borders. It's particularly valued in temple towns for its spiritual significance.
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18. Kollegal Silk – Resurrecting a Weaving Tradition
Region: Kollegal (Chamarajanagar)
Fabric: Mulberry silk
Highlights: Once in decline, this pit-loom woven silk with jacquard designs and peacock motifs is being revived through grassroots efforts and artisan clusters.
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19. Dariya Daulat Silk – From Fresco to Fabric
Region: Srirangapatna
Fabric: Silk scarves and stoles
Highlights: Inspired by the floral and battle scene frescoes from Tipu Sultan’s summer palace, these textiles bring historical art into wearable forms.
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20. Gadag–Betageri Sarees – Bold Borders
Region: Gadag–Betageri
Fabric: Cotton (18–20 count)
Highlights: These sarees feature temple borders and a strong contrast anchu (border). A GI tag protects this striking, lightweight weave.
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21. Hubli–Dharwad Cotton Sarees – Dual Personality
Region: Hubli / Dharwad
Fabric: Cotton or cotton-silk
Highlights: Known for their reversible pallus and comfortable texture, they sometimes carry added Kasuti embroidery. Perfect for everyday elegance.
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22. Bijapur Cotton Sarees – Everyday Tradition
Region: Bijapur / Vijayapura
Fabric: Cotton or cotton-silk blend
Highlights: With roots in local weaving traditions, these sarees are recognized for their Tope-Teni border style and wide local market appeal.
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Conclusion
Karnataka’s textile crafts are not museum pieces—they’re stories still being written. Whether it’s the regal drape of Mysore silk or the recycled genius of Kawandi quilts, these textiles represent resilience, identity, and innovation. As urban markets rediscover the appeal of handmade and sustainable fashion, these crafts hold the key to a more rooted and conscious future.
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